Hedging care & growing guide
Laurel hedging establishes best when you choose the right type for the site, plant it at the same depth it was growing before, water the full root area during dry weather and trim it at the correct time. Cherry Laurel, Portuguese Laurel, Upright Laurel, Compact Laurel and Sweet Bay are all evergreen, but they do not have identical growth rates, hardiness or soil preferences. This guide explains how to choose, plant and care for them in UK gardens and landscaping projects. You can also explore our complete range of Laurel hedging plants.
Good establishment depends more on correct planting depth, drainage and consistent watering than on forcing rapid top growth. A newly planted hedge may make limited visible growth while its roots establish, particularly after planting larger pot-grown or root-balled specimens. Keep the planting strip weed-free, check moisture below the surface and avoid feeding heavily into dry or waterlogged soil.
Expert nursery advice
“Laurel is popular because it establishes into a dependable evergreen hedge, but it is important to choose the right variety. Some Laurels are best for fast privacy, while others are better suited to narrow spaces, formal gardens or lower boundaries.”
From our nursery
“Cherry Laurel is usually my first suggestion when a customer wants a dense evergreen screen that will establish relatively quickly. Its large glossy leaves create strong coverage, and it responds well to regular trimming. Give it enough space, prepare the soil properly and keep it well watered during establishment.”
“Portuguese Laurel has a finer and more elegant appearance than Cherry Laurel. Its smaller dark green leaves and reddish young stems make it especially suitable for formal hedging. It is a good choice where customers want evergreen privacy without the heavier, broader foliage of Cherry Laurel.”
“Upright Laurel is useful where space is more restricted because its naturally upright habit can create height without spreading as widely as traditional Cherry Laurel. It still needs pruning to maintain a neat hedge, but it can be a practical option beside driveways, paths and narrower boundaries.”
“Compact Laurel is better suited to lower hedges, smaller gardens and places where a full-sized Cherry Laurel would eventually become too large. Its naturally compact growth makes it easier to manage, although good planting preparation and consistent watering are still essential while the plants establish.”
“Sweet Bay is quite different from Cherry and Portuguese Laurel. It has aromatic leaves and a more refined Mediterranean character, making it attractive as an informal hedge, specimen or screen in a sheltered position. In colder or exposed gardens, it benefits from protection from harsh winds and severe frost.”
Compare the available plants, formats and starting sizes in the complete range.
Explore our complete Laurel hedging range| Botanical name | Most plants in this guide are Prunus; Sweet Bay is Laurus nobilis. |
|---|---|
| Plant type | Broadleaved evergreen hedging shrubs. |
| Evergreen or deciduous | Evergreen |
| Typical growth rate | About 10–20cm a year for Compact Laurel, around 10–30cm for Sweet Bay, 20–40cm for Portuguese Laurel and 30–60cm for Cherry or Upright Laurel in favourable conditions. |
| Preferred position | Sun or partial shade. Cherry and Portuguese Laurel also tolerate considerable shade. Sweet Bay performs best in a warm, sheltered position. |
| Soil | Moist but well-drained soil. Portuguese Laurel is particularly useful on chalk. No Laurel thrives in persistently waterlogged ground. |
| Watering | Water thoroughly after planting and during dry spells through the first two growing seasons. Adjust the frequency according to the weather, soil and plant size. |
| Pruning period | Prune Prunus laurels mainly in late spring or early summer, with a light late-summer trim if required. Trim Sweet Bay in spring or summer. |
| Feeding | Apply a balanced hedge feed as a spring top dressing where growth is weak or plants are young. Do not place concentrated fertiliser directly against the roots. |
| Hardiness | Cherry, Portuguese, Upright and Compact Laurel are generally hardy in UK gardens. Sweet Bay needs more protection from severe frost and cold, drying winds. |
| Typical hedge height | Usually 1–3m, depending on the variety and pruning. Compact Laurel is best suited to low hedges, while Cherry and Upright Laurel can be maintained at much greater heights. |
| Planting season | Pot-grown plants can be planted whenever the soil is workable, although autumn to spring is usually easiest. Bare root and root-balled plants are supplied during the dormant season. |
| Root types commonly available | Availability varies by variety. Cherry and Portuguese Laurel are supplied in the widest choice of formats, while Sweet Bay and Compact Laurel are normally pot-grown. |
| Type | Best suited to | Typical annual growth | Site notes | Common formats |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cherry Laurel | Rapid privacy, broad screens, shade, large gardens | About 30-60cm in favourable conditions | Adaptable, including shade and many exposed sites, but avoid waterlogging | Pot grown, bare root, root ball and instant |
| Portuguese Laurel | Formal hedges, driveways, chalky soils, refined finish | About 20-40cm | Sun or shade; handles poor, shallow chalk well if drainage is adequate | Pot grown, bare root, root ball and instant |
| Upright Laurel | Tall screening where width is restricted | About 30-60cm | Useful for a narrower hedge; keep roots evenly moist during establishment | Pot grown and root ball |
| Compact Laurel | Low hedges, front gardens, underplanting, smaller spaces | About 10-20cm | Low and spreading rather than tall; may yellow on poor, shallow chalk | Pot grown |
| Sweet Bay Laurel | Aromatic formal hedges, sheltered gardens, mild coastal areas | Often around 10-30cm | Needs good drainage and shelter from severe frost or cold drying winds | Pot grown |
| Laurel type and example size | Root type | Plants per metre | Approximate centres |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cherry Laurel 20-30cm | Bare root | 5 per metre | 20cm |
| Cherry Laurel 40-60cm | Pot grown | 4 per metre | 25cm |
| Cherry Laurel 60-120cm | Pot grown | 3 per metre | About 33cm |
| Cherry Laurel 100-175cm, selected pot sizes | Pot grown | 2 per metre | 50cm |
| Portuguese Laurel 30-40cm | Bare root | 5 per metre | 20cm |
| Portuguese Laurel 40-60cm | Pot grown | 4 per metre | 25cm |
| Portuguese Laurel 60-100cm | Pot grown | 3 per metre | About 33cm |
| Portuguese Laurel 100-150cm | Pot grown | 2 per metre | 50cm |
| Portuguese Laurel instant hedge | Instant unit | 1 per metre | 1m |
| Portuguese Laurel 60-125cm | Root ball | 3 per metre | About 33cm |
| Portuguese Laurel 150-225cm | Root ball | 2 per metre | 50cm |
| Portuguese Laurel 225-250cm | Root ball | 1.5 per metre | About 67cm |
| Portuguese Laurel 250-275cm | Root ball | 1.25 per metre | 80cm |
| Upright Laurel 80-125cm | Root ball | 3 per metre | About 33cm |
| Upright Laurel 125-200cm | Root ball | 2 per metre | 50cm |
| Sweet Bay Laurel 70-120cm | Pot grown | 3 per metre | About 33cm |
| Compact Laurel | Pot grown | Check the current product recommendation | Do not apply Cherry Laurel spacing automatically |
| Laurel type | Typical annual growth after establishment | Practical maintained height | Natural habit if not controlled |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cherry Laurel ‘Rotundifolia’ | About 30-60cm | Commonly 1.5-4m | Large, broad and capable of becoming a substantial shrub or small tree |
| Portuguese Laurel | About 20-40cm | Commonly 1.2-3m | Large evergreen shrub or small tree with a neater outline |
| Upright Laurel ‘Caucasica’ | About 30-60cm | Commonly 1.5-4m | Tall and comparatively narrow |
| Compact Laurel ‘Otto Luyken’ | About 10-20cm | Commonly 0.6-1.2m | Low and spreading, usually around 1m tall in normal hedge use |
| Sweet Bay Laurel | Often around 10-30cm | Commonly 1-2.5m | Can become a large shrub or tree in a mild, favourable site |
| Month | Main Laurel hedge care |
|---|---|
| January | Plant bare root and root-balled Laurel when soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged. Check newly planted evergreens after dry, windy weather. Protect Sweet Bay from severe frost. |
| February | Continue dormant-season planting. Firm plants lifted by frost or wind. Check guards, stakes and ties. Avoid routine hard clipping in freezing weather. |
| March | Finish much bare-root planting as the season allows. Remove weeds, renew mulch and apply a balanced spring feed where needed. Begin regular moisture checks. |
| April | Plant pot-grown hedging while conditions remain cool. Water new hedges during dry spells. Wait until frost damage on Bay is clear before cutting it out. |
| May | Monitor new growth, drought stress, vine-weevil notching, powdery mildew and leaf spots. Check carefully for active nests before any pruning. |
| June | Main trimming period for established Cherry, Portuguese, Upright and Compact Laurel, subject to nesting birds. Water deeply in dry weather and maintain mulch. |
| July | Prioritise watering and weed control. Inspect irrigation coverage, especially on long rows and large root balls. Avoid feeding drought-stressed plants. |
| August | Carry out a light late-summer trim if required, after checking for nests. Avoid hard pruning and heavy high-nitrogen feeding late in the month. |
| September | Prepare ground for autumn planting. Improve drainage, clear perennial weeds and plan delivery access. Plant pot-grown Laurel as temperatures ease. |
| October | A good month for pot-grown evergreen planting. Root-balled availability may begin as plants become dormant. Mulch after planting and protect young stems where browsing is likely. |
| November | Plant bare root and root-balled stock as supplied. Keep roots covered during handling. Water after planting and secure larger specimens against wind rock. |
| December | Continue planting in workable weather. Do not plant into frozen or saturated soil. Check Sweet Bay and recently planted large-leaved Laurels after cold drying winds. |
| Symptom | Likely causes | What to check and do |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow leaves | Waterlogging, drought, establishment stress, high-pH chlorosis, root damage or nutrient shortage | Check moisture at root depth. Improve drainage or watering as required. Inspect planting depth and new roots. Feed only after moisture and root problems are corrected. |
| Brown tips or margins | Drought, cold drying wind, frost, salt exposure or leaves cut by machinery | Check the root ball for dryness. Water deeply, shelter young plants where practical and wait until late spring before removing frost damage. |
| Whole leaves browning after planting | Dry root ball, severe transplant stress, damaged roots, planting too deep or waterlogging | Check several plants and compare soil conditions. Correct irrigation and depth promptly. Seek nursery advice if decline is rapid or widespread. |
| Leaves dropping | Normal replacement of older leaves, drought, waterlogging, sudden exposure change or root stress | A small seasonal loss can be normal. Investigate if shoots become bare, new leaves also fall or stems die back. |
| Round or irregular holes with brown corky edges | Laurel leaf diseases, including powdery mildew damage, fungal leaf spot or bacterial shothole | Look for white coating, spots and distorted new leaves. Remove badly affected material, clear debris, improve airflow and water at soil level. Avoid unnecessary chemical treatment. |
| White powder on leaves | Powdery mildew, often encouraged by dry roots and crowded growth | Water the root zone during drought, improve air movement and remove heavily affected shoots. Avoid wetting foliage repeatedly late in the day. |
| Notched leaf edges | Adult vine weevil, especially on pot-grown plants | Inspect at night and check roots for cream larvae in containers or recently planted root balls. Use current biological or cultural controls where appropriate. |
| Curled, thickened yellow margins on Sweet Bay | Bay sucker | Look for pale curled edges and waxy grey-white nymphs. Remove badly affected shoot tips and encourage natural predators. Long-term plant health is usually not seriously affected. |
| Sticky leaves with black coating | Scale insects or other sap feeders followed by sooty mould | Inspect stems and leaf undersides for scale. Wipe small infestations away, prune crowded growth and use only current UK-approved controls if intervention is justified. |
| Wilting in wet soil, sparse foliage or progressive dieback | Root rot such as Phytophthora, severe compaction or oxygen-starved roots | Stop automatic watering, assess drainage and roots, and obtain a reliable diagnosis before replacing plants. Improve the site rather than replanting into the same saturated soil. |
| Honey-coloured fungus or white fungal sheets beneath bark | Possible honey fungus | Seek confirmation before removing a hedge. There is no simple chemical cure, and management depends on the extent of infection and affected woody hosts. |
| Sparse growth at the base | Top wider than base, deep shade, missed formative pruning, weed competition or drought | Taper the sides, clear the base, water and mulch. Renovate gradually if the hedge is old and top-heavy. |
| No new growth | Normal establishment pause, cold spring, drought, root damage, deep planting or unsuitable soil | Check buds, scratch a tiny section of stem for green tissue and review root-zone conditions. Allow time until late spring before declaring a dormant-looking plant dead. |
| Chewed stems or low foliage | Rabbit or deer browsing | Install suitable guards or fencing and protect replacement growth. No plant is completely browse-proof when food is scarce. |
A well-managed Laurel hedge provides dense evergreen shelter, nesting cover and a wind-buffered microclimate. Cherry and Portuguese Laurel produce spring flowers and dark fruits when they are not clipped before flowering, although a formal hedge trimmed frequently will offer fewer flowers and berries. Bay also flowers and can support insects in a sheltered garden.
Check the entire hedge for active nests before pruning. Wild birds, their eggs and active nests are protected by law. The agricultural hedgerow cutting restriction from 1 March to 31 August applies to hedgerows covered by those rules and is not a universal domestic-garden pruning ban, but active nests must be protected wherever they occur.
Cherry Laurel, Portuguese Laurel and their cultivars are harmful if eaten, including their ornamental fruit. Keep cuttings and berries away from children, pets and grazing livestock. Sweet Bay is different: correctly identified, untreated Laurus nobilis leaves are used for cooking. Never assume that another plant called “laurel” is edible.
| Root type | At planting | First-season priority | Common mistake to avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bare root | Plant promptly while dormant, keep roots moist, spread them naturally and firm carefully | Prevent drying and keep weeds away from small plants | Leaving roots exposed or planting them bent into a narrow hole |
| Pot grown | Water the pot, loosen circling roots and keep the compost surface level with the soil | Water the original pot root ball as well as surrounding soil | Assuming rain has penetrated a dry, peat-free or congested root ball |
| Root ball | Keep the ball intact, plant at the correct depth and remove or loosen unsuitable wrapping | Maintain even moisture within and around the ball, and prevent wind rock | Handling by the stem, breaking the ball or wetting only the surface |
| Instant hedging | Prepare a level trench, plan machinery and access, and install irrigation where useful | Provide even watering across the complete unit and check joins between units | Treating an instant visual screen as an already established root system |
Plant spacing depends on the exact species, plant height and root type. Current examples range from 5 small bare-root plants per metre at 20cm centres to 1 large instant unit per metre. Larger pot-grown and root-balled plants are normally spaced farther apart. Use the plants-per-metre figure for the selected product size rather than a universal 60-90cm rule.
Small bare-root Cherry or Portuguese Laurel may require 5 plants per metre, smaller pots may require 3-4, and larger specimens may require 1.25-2. The exact quantity is shown against each size. Multiply the hedge length by that figure and round up where necessary, while allowing for corners, gates and the desired end positions.
Early autumn to early spring is usually the easiest period because soil moisture is more reliable and plants face less heat stress. Bare root and root-balled Laurel must be planted in the dormant season. Pot-grown Laurel can be planted throughout the year if the soil is workable and you can water it thoroughly during dry weather.
Cherry and Upright Laurel can grow about 30-60cm a year after establishment in favourable conditions. Portuguese Laurel commonly grows around 20-40cm, Sweet Bay often around 10-30cm and Compact Laurel about 10-20cm. These are planning ranges, not guarantees. Root establishment, soil, light, water, exposure and pruning all affect annual growth.
Prune Cherry, Portuguese, Upright and Compact Laurel mainly in late spring or early summer, after severe frost risk has passed. A light late-summer trim can maintain a formal outline. Trim Sweet Bay in spring or summer and remove frost damage in late spring. Check for active bird nests before every cut.
Cherry and Portuguese Laurel usually regrow from old wood and can often be renovated successfully. Reduce an old hedge in stages if it is weak, very large or under stress, then water, mulch and feed appropriately. Sweet Bay also tolerates hard pruning but recovers slowly, so spread major reduction over two or three seasons.
Check the soil below the surface and water thoroughly whenever the root zone is beginning to dry. Newly planted Laurel normally needs the closest attention during its first growing season and during hot, dry or windy weather. Avoid watering automatically when the soil is already wet.
A balanced general hedge fertiliser applied as a spring top dressing is suitable for young, weak or recently pruned Laurel. Follow the label, apply it to moist weed-free soil and keep it away from stems. Do not use feed to mask drought, waterlogging or deep planting, and avoid heavy high-nitrogen feeding late in summer.
Cherry Laurel and Portuguese Laurel both tolerate partial shade and can grow in considerable shade, although the hedge may be slower and less dense. Competition from established trees and dry “rain shadow” soil is often a bigger problem than light alone. Water deeply, clear weeds and choose a sensible density for the plant size.
Cherry Laurel grows in clay if the soil is not compacted or waterlogged. Portuguese Laurel is particularly useful on chalk and shallow alkaline ground. Compact Laurel may yellow on poor shallow chalk. No Laurel should be planted into permanently saturated soil, and Sweet Bay needs especially good drainage.
New Laurel often yellows because its roots are too wet, too dry or disturbed after planting. Check the original root ball and surrounding soil at depth. If both are suitably moist, review planting depth and drainage before adding fertiliser. Some older leaves may yellow and drop naturally as the plant adjusts and produces new growth.
Brown leaves after winter usually indicate frost, cold drying wind or a dry root zone rather than a lack of feed. Wait until late spring to see where new buds break, then cut back to healthy growth. Sweet Bay is particularly vulnerable. Continue watering recently planted evergreens during dry frost-free spells.
Holes can be caused by vine-weevil feeding or Laurel leaf diseases such as powdery mildew damage, fungal leaf spot and bacterial shothole. Disease holes often have brown corky edges and may accompany spots or distorted leaves. Confirm the pattern, improve growing conditions and use cultural controls before considering any current UK-approved treatment.
Cherry, Portuguese and Upright Laurel can become large shrubs or small trees if left unpruned, but they are commonly maintained between about 1.5m and 4m. Compact Laurel is best as a low hedge around 0.6-1.2m. Sweet Bay can grow large in a mild site but is often clipped between 1m and 2.5m.
Compact Laurel is the best low-growing choice. Upright Laurel is useful where height is needed but width is limited. Portuguese Laurel can be clipped into a neat formal hedge, while Sweet Bay suits a sheltered smaller garden if slower growth is acceptable. Vigorous Cherry Laurel needs enough width and regular pruning.
Cherry Laurel, Portuguese Laurel and their cultivars are harmful if eaten, including the fruit. Keep plant material away from children, pets and livestock. Sweet Bay is botanically different: correctly identified Laurus nobilis is the culinary bay used in cooking. Do not use leaves from any other plant sold under the name “laurel”.
Laurel is not uniquely destructive, but a mature hedge is a large woody plant. Avoid planting directly over drains or close to vulnerable structures. Roots may enter already damaged drains, and large vegetation can affect shrinkable clay. Use the planned mature width, maintenance access and site conditions to choose a sensible distance, and seek professional advice near buildings.
Useful planting, pruning and hedge-care advice from our nursery.
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Useful answers from our Laurel hedging knowledge base.
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